Sublimation turns dye into a gas with heat and pressure, and that gas bonds with polyester fibres or a polymer coating but not with cotton, which is why a sublimation print on 100% cotton fails. The dye is also see-through and there is no white ink, so the print only shows properly on white or light surfaces, where the surface itself does the job of white.
That rule shapes your product range more than any design choice. If you are adding mugs, ornaments, tumblers or all-over print shirts, or thinking about a sublimation printer for your own orders, knowing why it works this way helps you pick products and designs that print the way your mockup promised.
How sublimation works
One print provider describes sublimation as using "high heat and pressure to apply dyes onto the product", with the dyes soaking into the material for a smooth finish (a provider's guide to print methods). The design is printed onto transfer paper with sublimation ink, then pressed onto the product.
Under heat, the dye goes from solid to gas without becoming a liquid first, which is what the word sublimation means. Polyester fibres open up in the heat, take the gas in and close around it as they cool. The colour ends up inside the fibre rather than on top of it, or, as the same provider puts it, "the design becomes a part of the fabric" (provider guide to all-over print). Our guide to sublimation printing for POD sellers covers the full process.
Why it needs polyester
Cotton is a natural fibre. It does not open up and lock in sublimation dye the way polyester does, so the colour has little to hold on to and fades in the wash. One provider's rule is short: sublimation "requires polyester or another synthetic material" (provider guide). Cricut, writing about its Infusible Ink, a sublimation-style system, is just as direct: "No, Infusible Ink designs will not transfer to 100% cotton." It puts the minimum for good results at blanks with at least 75% polyester (Cricut Help).
Blends sit in between. Only the polyester share takes the dye, so the more cotton a shirt has, the lighter and more washed-out the print looks. Some sellers use that on purpose for a vintage look, but it should be a look you chose, not one a buyer discovers.
Hard goods follow the same logic. Mugs, ornaments and tumblers are sublimated onto a coated surface (provider guide): the coating gives the dye something to bond with, which bare ceramic or metal does not. Our comparison of mug printing methods goes further on mugs.
Why it needs a light surface
Sublimation dye is see-through. It tints the surface it lands on, the way a highlighter tints paper, so the colour of the product shows through and mixes with every colour in the design. On white, you get the colours you designed. On light grey or pastel, everything shifts a little toward the base. On black or navy, the dye has nothing to show against.
There is also no white ink. "The color white can't be printed on all-over print products," one provider states (provider help article), and anything white in your file simply shows the base colour. Cricut recommends its ink for "white or light-colored fabrics" and suggests iron-on vinyl for a dark base (Cricut Help).
All-over print shows a related effect: "the design is printed over white material", so a dark background can show white lines where the fabric stretches (provider guide to all-over print).
Sublimation, DTF and DTG side by side
Because sublimation is fussy about fabric and colour, it pays to pair it with a method that is not. Here is how the three compare:
| Compared on | Sublimation | DTF | DTG |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fabrics | Polyester and other synthetics, plus coated hard goods | Cotton, polyester, nylon and blends | 100% cotton or high-cotton |
| Garment colours | White or light | Any colour, thanks to a white ink layer | Any, with pretreatment and a white underbase on dark garments |
| White in the design | Cannot be printed | Printed with white ink | Printed with white ink on dark garments |
| Feel | Part of the fabric, nothing on top | A thin, smooth layer on top of the fabric | Ink absorbed into the fibres |
The DTF and DTG rows come from one provider's DTF vs DTG comparison and its print methods guide. For the other two methods in depth, see what DTF printing is and how it works and our guide to printing on dark garments.
What it means for your products and designs
The two rules give you a clear map for products:
Sublimation fits polyester shirts in white or light colours, all-over prints, and coated hard goods like mugs, ornaments and tumblers.
DTF or DTG fits cotton tees, sweatshirts and hoodies, and every dark garment.
Light colours only belong in the colour list of a sublimated garment. A black option on a sublimation listing promises a print the method cannot make.
And for designs:
Never rely on white. White lettering on a light grey polyester shirt fades into the grey. Keep white text for DTF or DTG products in dark colours.
Expect colours to shift on tinted bases. Check how your palette reads on cream or pastel before you add those colours.
On all-over prints, light backgrounds hide stretch lines better than dark ones.
Name the material. Write "polyester" in the listing so a buyer expecting a cotton tee is not surprised.
Our guide to choosing a print method for each product goes through it product by product.
How our catalog handles it
In the Alomations catalog, apparel is printed with DTF (direct-to-film), and sublimation is used for the products that need it, so the method comes with the product you pick. DTF's white layer is what lets the same design go on a black tee as well as a white one. Each design also comes back print-ready in light and dark versions, and tone rules per garment colour decide which version each colour gets (automatic, and you can override them). Production for US orders is in the US, and each product's "from" price is listed on the catalog page.
Frequently asked questions
Can you sublimate on 100% cotton?
Not with good results. One print provider says sublimation needs polyester or another synthetic material, and Cricut says its sublimation-style ink will not transfer to 100% cotton. Use DTF or DTG for cotton.
Can sublimation print white?
No. There is no white ink, so white areas of the design show the colour of the surface underneath. That is why sublimation needs white or light products.
How much polyester does a shirt need?
For its Infusible Ink, Cricut puts the minimum for good results at 75% polyester. Below that, the print looks lighter and more faded as the cotton share grows.
Why does my all-over print show white lines?
All-over designs are printed over white material, so when the fabric stretches at seams or folds, white can show through a dark background.
You can browse the catalog and list your first products on the free plan.